Accurately estimate filament, electricity, labor, depreciation, and profit to get the right price for every print
No signup · Runs locally · Data stays private| Cost item | Amount ($) |
|---|---|
| Filament | 0.00 |
| Electricity | 0.00 |
| Labor | 0.00 |
| Failure buffer | 0.00 |
| Total cost | 0.00 |
3D printing seems cheap, but the real cost goes far beyond filament. This calculator helps you account for every factor — material, electricity, labor, equipment wear, and failed prints — so you know exactly what each print costs, whether you're a hobbyist or running a print service.
The most obvious expense. A 1kg spool of PLA typically costs $15–25, but prices vary widely by material:
Slicing software usually reports print weight or filament length. If you only have length, the tool converts it using the formula: weight (g) = length (m) × cross-section (mm²) × density (g/cm³) × 0.1. For 1.75mm filament, the cross-section is about 2.405 mm².
Your printer draws power while running — typically 50–200W. A 5-hour print at 120W and $0.12/kWh costs about $0.07 in electricity. Small for one print, but it adds up for batch or commercial work.
Every print requires setup: modeling, slicing, bed leveling, loading filament, and post-processing (removing supports, sanding). Even if you're printing for yourself, counting this time helps you price work fairly.
3D printers have a finite lifespan. A $300 printer used 3 years at 5 hours/day depreciates at roughly $0.05/hour. For long prints or commercial use, this is a significant hidden cost.
3D printing isn't 100% reliable. Warping, filament breaks, and clogs happen. Setting a 10–15% failure buffer ensures the cost of ruined prints is spread across successful ones.
If you offer 3D printing as a service, fair pricing means accounting for:
Suggested price = total cost × (1 + profit margin). For example, if the total cost is $2.00 and the margin is 50%, the suggested price is $3.00.
Either works. Weight is more accurate because length depends on filament diameter tolerances. If you have a precision scale, weighing the finished print is the most reliable method.
They're very close (1.24 ±0.02 g/cm³), but blended filaments (silk, metallic, wood-fill) may differ. For high-precision needs, check the manufacturer's spec sheet or measure it yourself.
The heated bed and hotend are the main power draws. You can use a smart plug with energy monitoring for exact figures, or use the rated power from the printer's spec sheet. Idle power is usually negligible.